Suspension Equipment Recommendations [Level 3]
Article:
This article lists some of the specific models of hardware I find most useful, and offers a few pointers on what to consider when choosing equipment for suspension. There's generally no single right answer when it comes to choosing equipment, however; your habits and preferences may be different than mine. At the end of the day, whatever you like is the right thing, so long as it's safe.
Carabiners
The single decision with regard to suspension equipment which is likely to make the biggest difference in your life -- and be most costly to change -- is your choice of carabiner.
For the vast majority of suspension applications, there is no reason to consider anything except an aluminum climbing carabiner. However, that still leaves hundreds of models to choose from. The factors you want to consider are:
- Width at the wide end; the wider it is, the more rope you can pass through it without jamming.
- Flatness at the wide end; extra width doesn't help much if it's at an angle that shoves all the rope down into the center, or up against the spine.
- Cross-sectional shape; a circular cross-section reduces friction and puts less wear on your rope; most climbing biners are only smoothly rounded over a small section of the inside.
- Locking mechanism; locking carabiners are not strictly necessary in most bondage situations, from a safety perspective, but they offer extra peace of mind and flexibility. Personally, I find screw gates abominably inconvenient in suspension work. Auto-lock carabiners are my preference, but there are many different mechanisms available; you ideally want to find one that you can easily open with one hand.
You could spend weeks researching different carabiners trying to find the perfect combination of traits, but let me save you the trouble: there is exactly one carabiner I have ever seen which is ideally designed for rope suspension, and it is the Black Diamond Rocklock TwistLock. The only reasons I've ever heard of for not liking this model are trouble operating it one-handed for people with very small hands, or that it doesn't come in black. The Rock Exotica Pirate Auto-Lock Black is black and has nearly as good a shape, but is much harder to open one-handed due to the 3-stage action, a great safety feature for climbing but a giant pain for bondage.
Rings
I stopped using rings years ago. They are heavy, bulky, and use up a ton of vertical space when working under a low hardpoint.
If you want to use a ring, the three things you have to decide on are diameter, thickness, and material. A larger diameter ring is easier to reach through and allows you to stack more support lines through it without jamming, but takes up more vertical space. A thicker ring is heavier, and there is some evidence it may increase friction. There is no actual evidence I've seen that an extra-thick ring decreases the chance of rope breaks, as claimed by some proponents. Wooden rings -- a recent trend -- produce substantially more friction than metal rings, and thus make lifting more difficult and increase the chance of rope breaks if using weak support lines.
Rigging Plates
While it is possible to simply chain one carabiner off another, I find that putting more than 1 support line + 1 additional biner on any given biner tends to be a recipe for jams. When working without a ring, this means that you extend your rig downward by one carabiner per support line, thus doing my least favorite thing -- squandering vertical space.
The solution to this is the rigging plate -- a device which holds several carabiners spaced out horizontally at the same height. My preferred model is the Petzl PAW Small; it has a shape which promotes stability, good spacing, and comes in black. I find a 3-hole plate to be the right size for the majority of single-person suspensions. Occasionally I will clip additional biners in, extending down onto a second level; but now I can get up to 6 support lines in 2 carabiners of vertical space, a 3x improvement over without the rigging plate.
I've noticed that when getting their first rigging plate, many people tend to assume bigger is better -- it can't hurt to have extra spots for more biners, right? Wrong. The problem is that the wider the rigging plate is, the more it tips back and forth as you're using it. Also, even in situations where you need 5 or 6 lines tied off, having that many biners all right next to each other at the same level can become too crowded. I can't recommend strongly enough going for a small rigging plate. The only situation I've ever found larger ones useful in was doing highly complex multiple-bottom transition stunts.
Swivels
I use the Rock Exotica Shackle Swivel, which I keep permanently installed on my rigging plate; this type of setup saves the height of a carabiner between your swivel and your plate (or ring). However, the newer Petzl Swivel Open is probably actually a better design, and I now would generally recommend that instead (although be aware it has a smaller opening). Either way, be sure to read the manual and understand the limitations and risks of these special-purpose products.
For use with a carabiner, almost any normal climbing swivel is fine; however I find Petzl and Rock Exotica to have lower friction, and thus enable longer spinning, than the Black Diamond models.
Rigging Knife
In addition to safety scissors (never as a substitute), I like to carry a rigging knife with a marlinspike when suspending. While the knife portion is only useful for cutting near the ring, which the safety scissors could do just as well, the marlinspike can help unjam a knot without cutting. In truth, I'm not sure I've ever used it in the air -- there are often other ways to undo jams, and cutting is always faster -- but I like to have an option available other than cutting for a jammed knot. The knife I have is the Fury Tactical Spike Folding Tool, which is currently unavailable; but this Myerchin appears identical in design and has at least one good review. What makes a good marlinspike is that it should lock open, and taper for its entire length; a surprising number of supposed rigging knives fail on one or both these counts.
Suspension Frames
It turns out that hardware made for swingsets is great for building suspension frames out of. My frame at home is built from these inexpensive corners; just add lumber and you've got a frame of whatever dimensions you want for around $200, that's as or more stable than any custom-designed-for-bondage frame I've ever encountered. Some trigonometry required.
Measurements
I was asked about how to calculate the footprint of one of the A-frames I link to above; here are the dimensions for my setup:
- Floor to Bottom of Beam: 90"
- Footprint of Frame, Parallel to Beam: Length of beam + 48"
- Footprint of Frame, Perpendicular to Beam: 97"
- Length of Legs: 103"
All those numbers should scale linearly with each other, assuming you get a bracket identical to mine. However I don't think they're all identical (or they changed at some point) -- a different bracket I had of the same model, I measured 10" of clearance for every 12" of leg length, which would have been 4" shorter than listed above. It might also partly depend on the size of the setup, since the elements are not perfectly rigid. Speaking of sizing, here's what the manufacturer says about max specs:
4x4 legs should not exceed 8'. If you do choose to exceed this length we do recommend setting each foot in concrete. 4x6 Swing Beam should not exceed 12' and not have any more than 3 swings on the beam. Anything past this length is not recommended. The maximum load on the swing set should not exceed 500lbs.
Rope
For recommendations on support lines, please see Support Line Selection. For general information on bondage rope, see Rope Materials.
(As of mid-April 2016) The Rocklock Twistlock is backordered and out of stock everywhere I checked; even Black Diamond doesn't have an ETA for when they'll be available again. :(
Any alternate recommendation for the upcoming intensive?
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I have searched high and low and don't have an awesome option to suggest, unfortunately. The next closest thing I've seen is the Rock Exotica Pirate:
http://www.rockexotica.com/product/aluminum-carabiners/pirate/
Unfortunately the wide side is not quite as flat as the Rocklock, and the auto-lock is a 3-stage rather than 2-stage, so it's harder to operate one-handed. One of my regular students uses the screw-lock Pirates and quite likes them, but then you have to wonder about the tastes of someone using screw-locks. ;)
It may be the best option is to find something really cheap (doesn't have to be locking), and wait for the Rocklocks to be back in stock.
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It appears that the Rocklock Twistlock is now back in stock on Black Diamond's website and available for at little as $14 at some retailers. Huzzah!
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Why a rigging knife; "This makes it excellent at unjamming knots -- something far more likely to be useful in a suspension mishap than cutting ropes." ...why so; is there an article here that speaks to that already?
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I updated the text to be more explanatory and less hyperbolic. :) In truth they are both important.
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Hello, Would you be so kind as to write something that addresses how to secure a ring/carabiner to the hard point/frame? I have found advice about what equipment to use but not how to use it. Is it better to secure a ring with webbing or regular support line? Do you have a preference? Thank you for this great site.
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I prefer to use webbing; it is cheap and strong, and I can easily carry several pre-made loops of different convenient lengths for slinging different sized beams. You can either lark's-head around a beam, or (better/stronger) clip a biner through both ends of a loop wrapped around the beam. To tie bulk webbing into loops, use a water knot:
https://crash-restraint.com/ties/223
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Hi Do you recommend any portable rigging system? (not DIY). I have seen things such as the Tetruss (http://tetruss.com/) - which was reviewed by Twister Monk as not so great, the frame by Bounds of Steel (https://www.etsy.com/fr/listing/188746564/bonds-of-steel-portable-suspension?ref=shop_home_feat_3) or The Point (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpLE1Nwhp74), or even considered frame for Aerial Yogas (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChhMG1iARIU). Unfortunately, I have seen non of them in action and was wondering if you have any recommendation. I also wonder if they are not all shaky (as can be seen on the Aerial Yoga frame video). Thanks for your help !
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This for this great walkthrough! I love your DIY loadout, but like user pleasedonotstop, I am interested in making this portable. Is your setup portable, or have you screwed the lumber into the jungle gym connectors? I am really interested in having a rig that I can take around to events and so on, and I would assume that you are too and you don't just have this set up in your house all the time.
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The swingset style frame can be assembled or disassembled by 2 people in about 20 minutes, but I'd hardly call it portable. I don't take it to events; I mostly go to events that have hardpoints available. I've never used a truly portable frame that I loved working on; they all suffer from lack of working space, lack of stability, or both. There may simply be no way to achieve portability without making some sacrifices (at least with materials available today). How much to sacrifice in what department is a determination that has to be made in view of your individual requirements.
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Topologist, what is the shortest length you think is viable for the top beam? I am working with a space where I think the top beam would be limited to either 4' or 5' plus the 48" for a total of either 8' or 9'. Since this has an aspect ratio very close to square (1:1) it seems like it should be still plenty stable, curious if you think the working space would be adequate?
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More working space is more convenient, less is less convenient...but you can work in a pretty small space if you're careful. That doesn't sound especially cramped.
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I'm a fan of rectangular-footprint frames made of 1-1/2" schedule 40 pipe held together with either gridlocks or rotolocks. While technically portable, a setup like this is quite heavy, and requires some knowledge of the hardware to set up properly. My usual is an 8-foot cube, which requires about 70 linear feet of pipe and 8 90-degree connectors. From there I can add spanning pipes to create overhead points wherever I need them.
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Hi, the ceiling in my appartement is a solid reinforced concrete slab. I was thinking of using this as an anchor point:
https://codipro.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/GRADUP_fiche_FEDSR.pdf
The M10 version can hold a workload of 0.7 ton at a safety factor of 5 to 1. I think that's on the safe side. Some might even say it's slightly overkill ;-)
However, I'm not sure about the way to secure it to the concrete ceiling. My first idea was to use a chemical anchor + threaded rod. Problem with that is: it's hard to remove later on. The logical alternative would be a wedge anchor (in this case an M10 size). But I cannot get straight answers about their ability to take dynamic loads. Some websites say you should never use a wedge anchor for dynamic loads, others say it's no issue.
Can anyone shed some light?
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The big problem with concrete anchors is that selecting and installing them is highly technical, there's not much you can do to inspect them, and when they fail, it tends to be catastrophically and without warning. I'd recommend a free-standing frame if it's an option for you. If you are going to anchor into the ceiling, hire an expert to design and install a system with sufficient redundancy. Building a hardpoint in a concrete ceiling is not a DIY project.
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Some equipment sourcing info:
Black Diamond Rocklock Twistlock: www.gearexpress.com has this for $13.27 (it says closeout but it's been several months and I've ordered twice) so maybe they have a large amount) 4 of them is enough to bag free shipping. Fury Tactical Spike Folding Tool: Goes down to $11.94 on occasion on amazon. Also available for $9.99 at https://lapolicegear.com/fury-32206-blade.html but shipping usually makes it more expensive than amazon prime. Free pickup in LA though, if someone is there. Occasional free shipping or sitewide discounts make buying multiple ones cheaper.
I'll add some additional info in the Rope Materials link on some rope sources http://crash-restraint.com/ties/2
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If I did my math right, you can calculate your leg length from your ceiling height for these brackets as follows. Topologist's legs are 1.073 times as long as his total height. Subtract 2'' from your ceiling for rounding. Multiply this number by 1.073 to get your leg length. You can safely round this up to the nearest inch.
Example: my ceiling is 90". My leg length would be exactly 94.424 to get an 88" height. I round this up to 95" legs.
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This was very helpful for me. Thanks for the math!
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If one only plans to use the equipment for horizontal suspension, what’s the minimal height that’s workable for a suspension hardpoint/rig? (I’ve got very low ceilings at my current home ;))
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It depends what type of scene you have in mind and how creative you want to get. Aside from having space for vertical positions, the main issue with a very low point is the potential for both the top and bottom to hit their head on the rig. I'd say with 5' of clearance you can have a totally fun suspension scene where nobody stands up; 3' would be technically possible but so annoying I can't see wanting to do it except for some sort of stunt. Where the cutoff is will depend on your height and goals.
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If I do choose to use a ring, how would you recommend choosing one? Unlike rigging plates, rings seem to almost never be rated so I find it hard to judge their strength. Intuitively, I feel like a steel ring will never be the weakest point of the rig, since my ropes will be weaker. Furthermore, I've never heard of a steel ring failing, so that also gives me some confidence.
I've also seen hollow steel rings. I still think that these should be strong enough, especially compared to the tensile strength of my rope, but I'm not completely sure. What do you think?
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Metal rings made for sailing are more likely to come with a specific strength rating than those manufactured by bondage enthusiasts, are often cheaper, and can be found in at least some of the dimension options that are reasonable for our purposes. That said, it is a pretty unlikely source of failure. I'd only use a hollow ring if I was very confident in the skill of the welder; a solid ring is less likely to fail catastrophically if the weld breaks.
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The Fury Tactical Spike Folding Tool is out of stock on the two recommend sites Amazon and lapolicegear.com. I also found it on Walmart but it is out of stock there too.
Here is a Reddit thread on choosing an Marlin Spike:
https://www.reddit.com/r/sailing/comments/77cgfi/what_is_a_good_marlin_spike_that_i_can_keep_in_my
NOTE: Unlike the recommended knife, none of these appear to be locking.
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In the spirit of finding alternatives, it appears that the following folding knives all have locking marlinspikes: Camillus G10 Handle and Marlin Spike - www.amazon.com/Camillus-Carbonitride-Titanium-Folding-6-5-Inch/dp/B005LHGBB4 Spyderco Tusk - www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Plain-Knife-Titanium-Right/dp/B00ILC6YJU Myerchin Generation 2 Captain Pro - www.amazon.com/Myerchin-MYB300P-BRK-Generation-Captain-Pro/dp/B00AAW5EUY
NOTE::This is not a recommendation. I have not tried any of these.
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Anyone have any ideas on What to do about the feet on the swing set frame? Since I’m assembling it indoors, I’m concerned about the legs damaging the carpeting. I suppose I could cut the feet at an angle so they sit flat, but I feel that may still damage the carpeting.
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I've always used hard rubber floor-protectors of the type that are meant to go under sofa legs. I haven't had one set up on a carpet, though.
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Did you cut the legs at an angle before putting the hard rubber under them? I just put new wood floors in my place and don’t want to take any risks.
Thank you for all the info here! I am curious about the type of 4x4 wood posts that was used for your swing set brackets. What type of wood would you recommend? Obviously I don’t want to use pressure treated but would pine or other soft wood be strong enough and safe? I am also curious about if you cut the ends of the legs to fit flush with the floor?
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I've just used regular Douglas fir, but went to a lumberyard and picked the best pieces I could find out of the top-graded pile. There might have been a little eye-rolling but they didn't really seem to mind how long I took as long as I stacked it back up when I was done. I did have to ask really nicely to get them to deliver my order of a whole 5 pieces of lumber.
I haven't ever tried to cut the ends flat -- I don't expect it would be easy to get the angle right, and if it isn't perfectly flat, there's not much point. What I did for my most recent one was to make wooden feet out of some old shelving, with a hole drilled for the corner to set into. But honestly hard rubber furniture feet work surprisingly well.
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The Böker Magnum Catamaran knife has a very nice locking marlinspike that is tapered along it's entire length and appears widely available for about $30 USD. https://www.bokerusa.com/catamaran-01sc725?c=151
I have it in hand and it's finished well. Note that the blade doesn't lock.
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It looks like the Rock Exotica Shackle Swivel link is dead/moved -- here's the new link: https://www.rockexotica.com/products/shackle-swivel
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